Once you have determined what brand you have, you need to know what model it is. I know not everybody has access to the wide variety of books I do, but that is why libraries exist, and if you can afford an order at B&N, any guitar junkie will appreciate some good guitar literature. The two best resources in my opinion are books and (gasp!) the Internet. Unless it is a guitar built from parts, a build-it-yourself kit, or a blatant fake, a manufacturer name exists – you may just have to do some research to find it. Also, many fakes or copies will have all the features of a popular brand, but they don’t have a name (probably due to the fact the faker couldn’t come up with a creative name). If there is nothing on your guitar in question, chances are the original label or logo has fallen off. The most common place to find identification is on the headstock or on a label inside of the guitar, if applicable. Guitar builders affix their guitars with names so people know what they are playing. All guitars should have some kind of logo, label, or identification that makes it unique (think the Flying F for Fender, or the K for Kay). When you walk into that garage sale, pawn shop, or guitar show this spring, the first thing you need to figure out is what it is. You’re probably thinking that this is why the Trash or Treasure column exists, but I promise most of you will find that researching guitars (or any musical instruments) can be very interesting – you never know what you may learn! My first installment focuses on determining the make and model of a guitar. It may seem like I have a magic wand that instantly finds the answers to your many questions, but I spend quite a bit of time researching each guitar before I respond. Since I can’t include everybody’s guitar in my column, I’m going to help you properly identify, date, and evaluate guitars. Although my Dobro appears to de shiny, there sre some mold-like spots on a lot of the wood surfaces.What kind of guitar is it? How old is it? What’s it worth? What is this stupid thing? I know I hear questions like this several times a day, and I’m sure many of you who are enthusiastic about guitars have found yourself asking these questions as well. I want to do a great job on this repair, because I know that he always intended to repair them, and my wish is to fix the tuners as well as he hoped to. My Dad and I were really great friends as well as being Father and son. Although I have a modern Advanced Jumbo and an Olson, this is by far my favorite guitar, and without a doubt will be number one forever. I think that the color of the glue on buttons match the shade of the original buttons that remain on the tuners.ĭecisions, decisions! It is well worth the time to think it through correctly. They're a bit shinycompared to the remaining original buttons, but I assume that I could scuff them up a bit with some 120 grit sandpaper. I just feel that super glue would be easier to get the correct pl'I do like the looks of the glue-on buttons. As previously stated, I am extremely grateful for your input.Īlso, if I decide to make the repair using glue, Would gel super glue be an adequate adhesive, or is a different glue more suited to this repair. Sorry if you're getting bored with my rookie questions, but I really want to replace the buttons correctly and get it done correctly the first time. Would tthose of you experienced in this repair remove the entire 3 peg strip while applying heat to the peg? This is done in order to act as a heat sink. They suggest putting an alligator clip near the base of the peg. I have seen some tips for installing the new melt on pins from Stew-Mack. Love the Pre War sound, nothing can touch it! DJ JMHO, I think the Regals are a higher quality instrument. There are many other little differences that are too long for a one fingered typist to list.
#DOBRO SERIAL NUMBER ON HEADSTOCK SERIAL NUMBER#
We have 2 Pre War Dobros, each has a serial number stamped on it.
#DOBRO SERIAL NUMBER ON HEADSTOCK SERIAL NUMBERS#
I currently have 4 Pre War Regals, 3 have no serial number as with all the Regals I myself have seen, the 4th one has a serial number stamped on the top of the headstock, where the serial numbers are located, and I believe it was added as an after thought. I'm guessing it is a 1935 to 1939 Regal from the pictures, but would have to see it in person to be sure. Does it have a lug resonator, short or long spider? What is the scale length? Regal usually had the longer scale. Yours is a tough call, pictures aren't very clear, but it looks like a model 37 Regal with the back body binding, usually not on model 27's, and the solid peg head. Pat, pending cover plate was usually on early models and had hold down screws at 12 & 6 o'clock, and mostly on the small body Regals.